![]() ![]() For most simple setups, a cheaper hardware store timer will do the trick. There are a vast amount to choose from, ranging in cost from cheap ($5 US) to pricey ($50 US to $100 US or more). They can be purchased from a hardware store, a pet store or online. A simple light timer is an easy and inexpensive way to automate the on/off cycle of your various gadgets. Reducing certain variables helps to take out a lot of guesswork when setting up a place for your pet to live. Making life easier on the owner is what it's all about. Along with good food and proper husbandry, adequate light and heat are essential to your pet's health. And, with a little planning and forethought, a healthy habitat can be achieved. The goal is to get everything just right, which will lead to a long, healthy life with few vet bills. Exotic reptiles and amphibians come from all over the world and re-creating their specific environment is important and sometimes challenging. Check the library or helpful guides on the internet, ask questions at the pet store and try to get everything ready before you bring your new friend home. Prior to purchasing a new pet, it would be smart to read up on the animal's specific needs, since they are all different. Heat is important since it helps to maintain the reptile's body temperature and aids digestion. Light is important because it helps to regulate the pet's sleep cycle and mating habits and helps maintain the health of the animal. I've only seen stress from too small of an enclosure and owned hundreds of snakes.For reptile owners, there are many options available to provide a reptile with it's proper lighting and heating needs, and the challenge is to put together a system that both fits the needs of the animal and the owner's budget. I don't buy that snakes don't do good in bigger enclosures. Here is the link:Īlso, you could upgrade to a 3-4 ft boa master and still use the same panel. Hygrofarm makes cheap reliable thermostats if you need one. This way if the first thermostat fails and stays on permanently, the second thermostat will still work and never let the cage get to deadly temperatures. ![]() Plug the main thermostats power into the second thermostat. Mount both thermostat probes in the same location (about half-way down the wall closest to the RHP,) with pro-strength high-heat hot glue. My advice would be to use two thermostats for the panel. Thermostat failure would be certain death for the snake. However since it will take up most of the roof, and therefor heats most of the floor. That panel will work perfectly fine for maintaining the ambient Temps. ![]() An experiment "failing" is still good results! Theoretically it would heat the cage floor (though potentially less than if UTH was directly attached) and the stone tile would be able to warm the air under the PVC cage, which would naturally aid the cage's warm side temps.Īgain, it was just a fun experiment to consider and rig up. I wanted to heat the tile directly with the UTH and then attach them thing to the PVC cage with heat-foil tape, with the thermostat probe attached to the cage interior floor. I've seen the "thickness" thing posted on /r/snakes before, and isn't it kinda why some folks use flexwatt over pet-store UTH's? It was just something fun to rig up and test out. UTH's supposedly don't heat PVC cages well do to their thickness, so I wanted to see if my stone tile modification could do it. Why is your UTH attached to a tile instead of being placed under the enclosure? ![]()
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